| Remove appropriate wheel. |
| Left side, remove exhaust
|
Remove the six 8mm Allen head bolts and 3 supports (blue arrow) securing
each axle to the differential.
|
 |
| Axle can be removed from control arm
or tied to control arm in such a way as to alleviate any undue stress on outer CV joint. |
| Right side, disconnect brake lining light sensor. |
|
| If control arm is being replaced, break loose flexible line at
caliper with a 14mm flare nut wrench while caliper is still bolted to control arm. If
only control arm bushings are being replaced, there is no need to open this line other
than to remove some weight from the control arm while working on it. |
| Remove both 17mm bolts securing brake caliper bracket to control arm.
There is no need to remove the caliper from it's bracket. |
 |
| CAUTION: Do
not allow caliper to hang from flexible hose. |
| Pull caliper towards outside of car to force pads apart and slide caliper
off rotor. If caliper is to be left with control arm, tie caliper up temporarily. |
 |
| If caliper is to be removed, unscrew it from the flexible line and place
aside. |
| Remove 5mm Allen bolt securing rotor to hub. If bolt head is stripped, and
rotors are being replaced, use a hammer on the back of the rotor to break it off the hub.
This will allow you to get full access to the head of the bolt with a pair of vice grips
or even to cut a slot in the head for a screwdriver. |
 |
| The only purpose of this bolt is to retain the rotor while
installing the wheel, if necessary, it can be left out, although it may cause problems
later if you have to change a tire on the side of the road. |
| Remove rotor, if rotor is stuck to hub , hit it with a hammer.
If rotor is to be re-used, do not hit the outer surfaces, hit the rotor where the wheel
bolts go through. The shock of a few good hits will bounce the rotor off the hub, be
careful not to drop the rotor. |
| Wind adjuster (red arrow) in to minimum setting. Remove both springs
(green arrows). Insert 5mm Allen key into shoe retainers and twist 90°. Release pressure
on retainer and remove. Do not drop shoes. Place shoes aside. |
 |
Note : Hub has been removed for clarity of photographs. Do not remove hub
unless you intend to replace wheel bearing.
|
| Pull lever forward to expose cable pin. |
 |
| Slide pin (arrow) out of cable end and push cable through backing plate. |
 |
| If caliper was not removed from flexible line earlier, bolt it
back onto the control arm to prevent it dropping during removal of the control arm. |
| Loosen the 17mm nut and bolt on each leg of the control arm,
do not remove them yet. |
| Support control arm and remove lower shock absorber mounting bolt. |
 |
| Remove 13mm nut from sway bar link and disconnect link from control arm |
 |
| Gently lower control arm as far as it will go. Pull down on top of
spring and out towards the side of the car to remove. |
 |
| Place support back under control arm and remove 17mm nut and
bolt from each leg of the control arm. |
CAUTION: Control arm is heavy, be prepared to take the weight when shock mount is released
|
| Pull control arm out of sub-frame and remove from car. |
| Press control arm bushings from the inside out. |
Installation
|
| Lubricate new bushings with soapy water or some other
evaporating lubricant. |
| Press in new bushings with collar end facing out. |
| Install control arm bolts, without tightening, before
tightening sub-frame mount nuts. The extra play in having the sub-frame loose will
make control arm installation easier. |
| Do not tighten control arm bolts until everything else is
assembled. Place vehicle's weight on its wheels to correctly pre-tension the
bushings before tightening control arms. |
| Vehicle's rear wheels can be placed on blocks or spare wheels
to achieve pre-loading while still allowing access under the rear of the vehicle to
tighten the bolts. |
| Bleed brake system |
